Vintage Report

Vintage 2009 

I always say it is dangerous for winemakers to comment on their vintages or their wines. I often say that "it is a bit like having grandkids... each one is better than the last!!". It is always tempting just to see the good side of things, but not the bad.

However think I am justified in saying that 2009 was one of the best: warm warmth at bud initiation, followed by a mild spring leading to a good flowering. This was followed by a lovely summer (warm and dry) and the best autumn weather I have ever experienced - no rain and warm too! While we had slightly higher crop levels than is usual, the conditions provided for ideal ripening. I think it will be very exciting when we see the first of the 2009 Pinots.

This year we returned to just making wines from our Martinborough blocks, primarily the Blue Rock site. While we were very happy with the quality of fruit we purchased from growers near Masterton in 2008, we have decided to concentrate our efforts on the Blue Rock grapes. The soils here are very different from the rest of Martinborough and the Wairarapa, and we want to capture that in the wines. With a high lime content in the soils, we achieve a lovely minerality in the white wines and a depth of flavour in the Pinot Noir that is not evident in wines from our Martinborough Terraces blocks.

For those interested in more detail, this may need further comment. It has often been said that the soils and climate of Martinborough are very similar to that of the world’s greatest Pinot Noir vineyards; being the plantings of the Côte d’Or, in Burgundy. While it is true the climate is similar, the soils in most of Martinborough have much more in common with the gravely soils of Bordeaux, than the Côte d’Or.  10 kilometres south of Martinborough, in the Dry River region, it is a different story.  Murdoch James Estate’s “Blue Rock” vineyard exhibits characters much closer to Burgundy. While retaining the low rainfall necessary to grow premium grapes, the soils here are quite different to the rest of Martinborough. On close scrutiny, the soil at “Blue Rock” has much more in common with those at Domaine Romanee Conti, Richbourg, and La Tache. They are free draining, limestone-based soils that give an added element of opulent richness and ‘flesh’ to the wines made from grapes grown on them. ~Roger Fraser

Vintage Report 2008

After a summer that was punctuated by the cries of the baby boomers – this is just like the summers when I was a kid – we have a fantastic line up of crisp, well balanced, flavoursome white wines.  The Pinot Gris, in its first really commercial cropping year has produced a beautiful mouthful. It faithfully carries forward the honey mead characteristic of Pinot Gris, with all the reminders of a hot dry summer. Jill says it is the best we have ever made, and most like the first Pinot Gris she fell in love with.

A new frost sprinkler system went in on the Waiata Block and the grapes responded to this very well. No stress equals better new growth and a better fruit set. The Blue Rock vineyard was not affected at all by any frosts. The reds from this vintage are being eagerly awaited for.

We can handle the hot dry summers on the Blue Rock vineyard without blinking. We irrigate according to probes set in the ground so the grapes get the water they need and that is all. And the vines this summer just grew and grew.  After three very indifferent years we were all gob smacked when the final tonnage estimates came in. 170 tons! That certainly got the winery boys busy, working out how that was all going to be processed.

They worked in two shifts, day and night, to press and process that amount of tonnage. The winery was full with large new steel tanks with squeezing past room only. Now, in October, the reds are slumbering away in their French oak barrels and the 2008 White wines are making their debut to huge acclaim.

Over the winter the vineyard staff have been busy with pruning.  They have changed their method this year as part of the risk management policy. All vines are getting extra fruiting canes laid down. This will minimise the risk of loss of production due to cold weather or gale force winds. It is easier to drop excess fruit than tie bunches on to the vines!!

The equinox winds started early but all the wind breaks have done their stuff and the vines are not affected in any way. So, between now and the end of November we are all hoping not to see any ‘Polar Rodents’ that the weatherman Jim is so fond of talking about.~Roger Fraser

Vintage Report 2007

The Blue Rock vineyard for us is our premium producer; multiple clones of Pinot Noir give us the complexity we love in our wine. The daring and thrill of getting close to perfect growing in Martinborough, is a challenge. Have I achieved this? This vintage, given all that nature has thrown at us this year, frost, frost, frost and cold wet southerly for a month at flowering…. is looking good. That says something about the optimism of women kind…

The focus for me this year has been and will always be the continuing health of the soil and vine and keeping those premium producing 25 year old Pinot Noir vines continues to focus us. Compost is the word, and to any grower “ the life of the party” (I am showing my organic tendencies here!

First in our vintage race will be the Pinot Gris. The Dijon clones of pinot noir follow close behind. As the sunny March days continue all the remaining Pinot Noir and varietals are picked and processed. The cabernets cruise slowly in last. Cabernets are not our major varieties but I like their attitude – we will get there in our own good time! By the time May arrives all the grapes will be doing their thing in barrels and tanks.

This year we add a new French flavor, a visiting French winemaker, David Morin. David will help in the winery alongside David and Carl.

In 2007 we will crush around 65 ton of grapes. We are not production producers here, we are premium boutique vine to wine growers and proud of it! ~Roger Fraser